New Zealand



White Island

As we approached white Island on the PeeJay IV the most obvious feature is the plume of white that is rising from the island.  This is what Captain Cook saw in the distance and why he named it White Island.  Captain Cook however did not see what we were about to see as we walked into the crater of an active volcano.  There is no dock, we are ferried to the island in an inflatable reminiscent of Cousteau's Zodiacs.  After a walk across a narrow board and a climb over ash covered boulders we finally reach the remains of the abandoned sulfur grinding and separation facility.  We have all donned hard hats, yellow for the tourists, pink for the guides, and have a gas mask hanging around our necks.  There is no life except a bird colony we say on the rocks from the boat.

On the wall of the crater we are shown the monitoring equipment, seismic sensors, Temperature sensors and a rain gauge.  The volcano was at Alert Level 2 because it was spewing ash.  At the time the wind is blowing the plume away from us so we didn't expect any problems.  We walk across a stream and are given the opportunity to taste it.  It is warm and bitter.  We go past a small crater made by a rock thrown during an eruption; our hard hats would have been of little use.  As we walk towards Donald Duck crater, the old main crater which now covered in a cracked layer of black ash, we can hear a low roar.  When we get to the edge of the main crater we look down some 60m to the bottom and see a sulphorous yellow lake  To the right is the fumeral, roaring as white and gray steam rolls out of it.  The wind has afforded us an excellent view and we can even see the vent.  William gets a bit close to the edge and Jeanie puts her hand on his shoulder to keep him safe.  I find that reassuring as I am starting to wonder why I was crazy enough to want to come here.

Finally we make our way back, following a different route.  There is a small vent that we stop at to photograph it.  The vent is yellow from the super in the steam.  Around a bend is a larger vent which has large super crystals.  Jeannie tells us that had not everything been covered in ash we would have seen more minerals deposits.  Walking back we step around boiling mud and across the hot stream again.  The guides wear shoes that have no metal because of the corrosive properties of the island.  They still go through shoes fairly quickly.

White Island Our tour group Fumeral and lake of Sulpher
Old crater Small vent Sulpher Crystals

   Click here to see our Complete album of White Island pictures.

We stayed at PeeJay Charter's  motel, White Island Rendezvous,  as well.  I highly recommend it.



 Whale Watch

It took a while, but we managed to see a Sperm Whale and a Southern Right Whale.  The Sperm Whale was very cooperative and stayed up for a while.  Right Whales come up for air quickly and then resubmerge, making it difficult to get a picture.  I understand seeing right whales, especially in the winter,  is very rare.  Had it been summer we may have been treated to other species as well, but in June it is mostly Sperm Whales, all male.

Video of Sperm Whale (394KB)  

Seal colony

There were "swim with the seals" places but we opted to visit the seal colony instead.  This is totally free!  We went at low tide and found Seals sleeping on the rocks and in beds of kelp.  You are supposed to stay 10 meters away and Leif discovered that the seals will protest if you don't when it turned out there was one closer than the one he was trying to photograph which he had not seen.

pictures coming

Dolphin Encounter

To Samantha this was to be the highlight of her trip.  I balked at the estimated 10 degree Celsius water so Leif got to go in with her.  William was declared too young, it turns out that Samantha was the youngest to go in the water in winter and not jump right back out.  Samantha had problems keeping her face in he water and breathing through the snorkel.  Apparently smiling breaks the mask's seal.

On board I was treated to endless dolphin antics by the dusky dolphins and happily snapped away with my camera.  William especially enjoyed watching the dolphin's ride the bow when the boat moved.


Notice the dolphin next to the swimmer Video of bow riding dolphins (large)
Video of swimming with the dolphins (large)


Maori Leap Cave

A young cave with few formations, but an interesting history.  The cave got its name when the Maori invaded the town of Kaikoura.  The people fled and many jumped to their death from the cliffs above the cave.

Soda Straws soda straws

Click here to see our Kaikoura Album



Antarctic Centre

 Interesting museum of Antarctic information.  Christchurch airport is the primary departure port for supplies and personnel traveling to the Antarctic continent.   Interesting  displays on Antarctic explorers and nature.   Haagstrom ATV ride and tour of the US staging facilities.

International antartic Centre

Willowbank Wildlife Reserve   

Willow bank specializes in breeding of endangered species.  Their farm section contains many exotic species of domestic horses, sheep, donkeys, pigs, chickens and other fowl that are not widely kept any more.  There are also other animals such as ducks, geese, lamas, deer and emus that are allowed to wander freely on the paths.  If you purchased the food bags before entering, you can accumulate quite a parade  in each section.  The highlight of Willowbank is it's native species section, especially the Kiwis.  We opted to enjoy the excellent buffet dinner with a guided tour the New Zealand Section.  To allow the best viewing of the nocturnal animals, our guide carried a red light.  Unfortunately this did not lead to the best video and picture taking of the elusive Kiwis

  KeaTame.JPG (30629 bytes)


Blue Penguins

 The Little blue Penguins spend days out at sea feeding.  Once satiated they will return to the colony shortly after sunset.  The Blue Penguin colony has lights on the beach to enable you to see the penguins, but they are not bright enough for photography and use of a flash is prohibited.  Unfortunately I did not think in advance to load high speed film in my Nikon.  There is a picture of some in the Featherdale Wildlife park in the Australia section.

It was a foggy night so they were not sure if any penguins would come in.  We had a lone penguin and were about to assume there would be no others when the group finally arrived.  In total 23 penguins arrived during the one hour observation period, a good number for June.

blue penguins.jpg (17019 bytes) Omaru.jpg (19218 bytes)



Moeraki Boulders

These are located on a beach about 40 miles north of Dunedin.  While there are other examples of this phenomenon in the world, these are said to be the largest.  They are nearly spherical and have been formed  like pearls in loose sedimentary layers.  The 2.5m diameter ones may have taken up to 7 million years to form. As the sedimentary formation is worn off by the ocean the boulders are exposed and washed by the ocean waves. 

 Movie of us playing on the rocks (large)

Royal Albatross Colony

To something point to see the Albatrosses.   We were very lucky to see several adult birds flying in from the ocean to feed the chicks.  Chicks were quite large this time of year,  they were hatched in January so would be about 6 months old.  They sit on the cliff by themselves waiting for the parents to come feed them.  We saw 6 of the 10 chicks, the other 4 were around the other side of the hill. 

  Movie of albatross feeding chick (large)

Fort Taiaroa

There is an old fort below the Albatross colony that was built in the late 1800ís to defend New Zealand from the Russians.  There is an Armstrong Disappearing Gun  there;  however it was never used in battle since Russia never attacked NZ.

Penguin Place

Next stop was the  to see the Yellow-eyed Penguin colony.   This place had some serious observation tunnels and blinds.   Saw about 8 birds, some very close up. 

  Video of penguins (large)

Click here to see our Dunedin album



Bluff is the southern most point of the South Island.  Beyond it lies Stewart Island and Antarctica.  The sign post gives distances to various locations throughout the world.

Paua (abalone) shell house

A life long collection of shells and pens displayed in his house.  It was at one time visited by Elizabeth II.




Aviary in Queen's Park 

The aviary was situated with several cages containing Australian and New Zealand birds.  The aviary itself is filled with parakeets, cockatiels, pigeons, and other birds I did not recognize.  Somehow I think my birds would be very happy there.


Henry the Tuatara

We visited the  Southland Museum's Tuatarium to see a Tuatara.  The Tuatara is a lizard that has not changed since the time of the dinosaurs.  While we were there we also visited the Maori display.   We didn't see the rest of the museum because William had been promised a chance to go swimming and we needed to make the opening of the waterslide.

Petrified Forest

Petrified trees that had fossilized beneath the sea bottom were later exposed by the waves once the land was no longer under water.  This forest is still covered at high tide, but we visited while the tide was out.  The beach is covered with the remains of fallen trees, but I found the stumps the most interesting.


Porpoise beach

In the summer dolphins frequent the area, but in the winter we saw nothing but birds.  The beach was covered with shells and William enjoyed collecting them.

Purakanui Falls

We took a 10 minute walk through the rainforest to a small, but nicely tiered waterfall..

Nuggets point

After driving up a steep hill you then get to walk down a steep hill.  The lighthouse is still in use but no longer manned.  The golden "Nugget" rocks are very impressive.


 Te Anau

Glowworm Caves

We took a large catamaran 16km up lake Te Anau to the entrance to the cave.   The cave has a large, active river running through it.  The tour guide ferries you across a section of the river and you then walk on catwalks over the river 100m into the cave past with waterfalls and rapids.  The stair case that goes up around one of the falls is particularly impressive.  The second boat is moored next to a small waterfall that has a rail across its top.  After everyone gets into the small 12 passenger boat the guide turns off the lights and small bluish lights become visible.  The guide stands and uses a chain mounted above to move the boat.  As you move into the main cave the sounds of the river diminish and there is total silence.  Speaking and photography (even without flash) is prohibited.  The glowworms were very bright for us, indicating that they were very hungry.  There is only one path in and out so you exit the way you came in.



We stopped here on the way from Te Anau to Milford Sound.  Watching the water flow through and around the rock was quite fascinating.

Chasm between Te Anu and Milford Sound


Milford Sound

Cruise of Milford Sound

Milford sound was misnamed as it is actually a fjord.  Fjords are dug out by glaciers, making them very deep.  Milford sound creates a unique environment in that it has a layer of silty fresh water on top of the salt.  This layer provides conditions that allow coral reef to grow at a shallower depth than would normally be required.  Pots were placed in the reef and an under water observatory was built in a different location.  Those pots have been moved to the observatory to allow visitors to see the reef environment.  This "reef" has the advantage that it can be raised or lowered based upon the thickness of the silty fresh water layer.

The rest of the fjord is impressive in itself.  There are two large waterfalls, one taller than Niagara Falls, and many more smaller ones.  When it rains even more form as water cascades off of the steep walls.  One wall is actually 90 degrees from the water, and quite high.  We went out to the Tasmin Sea where the water suddenly became choppy and the wind picked up, then turned back into the fjord for our trip back.  We saw some fur seals, but no dolphins.    

Click here to see our Milford Sound album


TSS Earnslaw Steamship Cruise

The TSS Earnslaw constructed to service the sheep stations around the lake.  It is powered by two triple expansion steam engines and a third steam engine is used to run the pumps.   The steam is generated by two coal fired boilers.  You can view the engine from a small area in the engine room or through an observation hole on the upper deck.  A Farm tour is available on the other side of the lake but we just took the round trip.  On the return there is a sing-a-long by the piano.  Leif spent the trip out looking at the engines.  William liked getting to steer the ship.  Samantha stayed by the piano and sang.  I took pictures.

  TSS Earnslaw Engine View down into engine room from upper deck

We took a gondola ride up a nearly vertical cliff 600m high to the top of the hill to a restaurant.  They also have facilities for a luge and bungee jumping,  but we did not try those,  The picture is taken from the restaurant.


Click here to see our Queenstown Album


Fox Glacier 

As we drove to Fox Glacier we kept seeing signs showing where the glacier was during different years.  When we finally reached the current location we found a walk over slippery terrain ahead of us.  Part of the path was marked as no stopping due to possibility of a rock slide.  I wasn't sure where I was supposed to go if the rocks did slide.  I stopped once I could see the glacier from the path as I was not feeling well..  Leif, the kids, Cathy and Liz continued on without me.  Cathy stopped when they had to cross a large stream using wet rocks.  Liz stopped at the top of the final hill.  Leif and the kids went down to the end of the glacier.  When William realized that there were people walking on it he wanted to do it too.  Unwilling to allow him to do a glacier walk, I arranged for him, Samantha, Cathy and Leif to take a helicopter to the top.  I went back to our room and slept.

The helicopter tour lasted about 1/2 hour.  They flew up to the glacier and landed on it.  The snow up there is so hard that the helicopter barely left any marks at all.  Cathy took her video camera and some of the video is available in the links below (long download).  I would especially recommend the video of the fly over.

  Our visit to Fox Glacier (very large) Fly over of Fox Glacier (large)

Click here to see our complete Fox Glacier Album


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For daily by day synopsis of our trip visit

 Leif's Journal



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copyright (c) 2000 Elizabeth Anderson.  Pictures copyright (c) 2000 Elizabeth Anderson, Leif Stembol, Samantha Stembol, William Stembol.  Video copyright (c) 2000 Cathy Rowsell, Samantha Stembol, William Stembol.  Any copyrighted images appearing in photos or video are used with the permission of the copyright holder.